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Gradara : If you love Romeo and Juliet, go to Gradara !

October 25, 2014 by Denis 19 Comments

Gradara : If you love Romeo and Juliet, go to Gradara !

When we left the town of Rimini, located on the Adriatic coast of Italy at the southern edge of the province of Emilia Romagna, and headed south to the neighboring region of Marche (in English “the Marches”), I did not expect to see much in terms of scenery or landscape. Italy was about to surprise and delight me once again!

The coastline of Italy on the Adriatic Sea, all the way from Trieste in the far north of Italy down to Rimini in Romagna, is totally flat and at sea level. Driving along the sea shore in Romagna, one sees an endless and uninterrupted row of hotels and resort towns, built to take advantage of the beautiful beaches along the shore.

However, as soon as we crossed into the Marches region a few miles south of Rimini, the scenery miraculously changed to one of green rolling hills, small Roman and Medieval towns perched on the hilltops or hidden in sea level coves, and quaint and quiet country roads wimding through a rural landscape seemingly forgotten by the modern world.

The whole area is so idyllic that the Italian government finally decided in 1994 to declare it a national park, called Parco del Monte San Bartolo, in order to protect the area from excessive development.

As we drove south through the park, admiring on the left the cliffs leading into a sparkling Adriatic Sea and on the right the green rolling hills dotted with farms, villas and vineyards, we suddenly noticed a beautiful castle on a choice hilltop location in the distance.

Castle of Gradara in the Marches of Italy

Castle of Gradara in the Marches of Italy

“Have you read the Divine Comedy by Dante?” asked our guide. “In 1310 or so, Dante Alighieri wrote about this castle, the Castle of Gradara, in his poem the Divine Comedy. He told the tragic love story of Paolo and Francesca, a true story which took place in that castle, and which later inspired Shakespeare to create the fictional Romeo and Juliet story.”

That tidbit of information was enough for us to change direction and head straight for Gradara and its magnificent, fully restored castle.

Gradara

Gradara

Francesca da Rimini was a contemporary of Dante, and she had been tricked into marrying Gianciotto “Crippled John” Malatesta, who lived in the Castle of Gradara. She actually was in love with Gianciotto’s brother, Paolo. When Gianciotto found out about the two lovers, he killed them both.

I was excited at the thought of visiting a castle associated with Dante, Paolo and Francesca, and indirectly with Romeo and Juliet. But there was much more to come.

Gradara

Gradara

It turns out that the castle of Gradara in 1289 became the property of the Sforza family, and I recognized the name immediately from having watched the Showtime series “the Borgias”.

The Castle of Gradara, home to Paolo and Francesca in the thirteenth century, became the home of Lucrezia Borgia a couple of centuries later when she married Giovanni Sforza, Lord of Pesaro and Gradara. That is the Giovanni Sforza whose unique place in history was assured when he later signed confessions of impotence, presumably under duress, in order to permit the annulment of his marriage to Lucrezia Borgia.

Gradara

Gradara

How many castles do you know of with such a rich history of famous love and death?

The Castle of Gradara consists not only of the castle itself but also of an ancient well preserved and renovated town protected by a double wall of fortifications. The main street leading up to the castle is lined with charming small shops and restaurants. Walking around the old town and its fortifications offers numerous vantage points for beautiful views of the coast and the Adriatic Sea. In other words, the whole place is an ideal tourist destination!

Gradara

Gradara

Because of time constraints, we did not have the time to enter and tour the castle itself. Perhaps I just wanted to have a good reason to want to return? Or perhaps I am hoping that some of the readers of BonVoyageurs ‘ blog will visit Gradara and share with us what lies behind the walls of the Castle of Gradara!

Stay tuned to BonVoyageurs.com for more Countries of the World as we share our joie de vivre from around the world.  Luxury escapes and city breaks to Quebec City, New York, Washington, Buenos Aires. In Europe, places like Paris France, Nice France, Provence and the Cote d’Azur (French Riviera), Tuscany and Florence in Italy, Rome, Napoli and the Amalfi Coast. In Asia, countries like China, India, Nepal and so much more!

Filed Under: Europe, Italy Tagged With: around the world, Borgia, city breaks, Dante, Europe, Gradara, Italy, Joie de vivre, luxury escapes, Marches, Quebec City, Romeo, Sforza, Travel

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Comments

  1. Donna Janke says

    October 27, 2014 at 2:48 pm

    Both the castle and the town look well worth a visit. Interesting history and beautiful scenery.

    Reply
    • Mari Nicholson says

      January 16, 2015 at 11:44 am

      Wow, i can’t wait to visit on my next trip to the area. I’m a regular visitor to that lovely country but like most people only knew of Verona’s association with Romeo & Julieta. Your story covers so much interesting history that I’ve read it twice already.

      Reply
  2. Leigh says

    October 27, 2014 at 4:01 pm

    This town is new to me and I can see why it was worth a detour. What a magnificent castle and such an interesting history. Lucky you for such a great and unexpected diversion.

    Reply
  3. Anita @ No Particular Place To Go says

    October 27, 2014 at 5:09 pm

    Wow! All the things I love about a visit to an historical place: intrigue, lust, murder, convoluted family stories and a castle in a spectacular setting. Thanks for introducing me to this wonderful area and I’ve put it on our “must see” list when we get to Europe.

    Reply
  4. Suzanne Stavert says

    October 27, 2014 at 7:30 pm

    This sounds like a place I would love to visit! I love the backstory! If I saw this magnificent castle on the hill, I would want to stop as well!

    Reply
  5. Betsy Wuebker | PassingThru says

    October 27, 2014 at 7:56 pm

    I am so the same kind of person who would detour on the whim of an anecdote as you did, and look at your reward! Beautiful photos, particularly the hilltop view of the castle. The pinky, golden light is gorgeous.

    Reply
  6. Nancie says

    October 27, 2014 at 9:55 pm

    I would definitely go back to tour the castle, and tour this lovely looking town. I love Romeo and Juliette, and I was lucky enough to go to a Romeo and Juliette opera production in Seoul, recently.

    Reply
  7. Carole Terwilliger Meyers says

    October 28, 2014 at 12:40 am

    I love castles and have visited many. I have dutifully added the Castle of Gradara to my to-do list. Thanks for the story!

    Reply
  8. Irene S. Levine, PhD says

    October 28, 2014 at 1:02 am

    That was pretty shrewd of you to leave yourselves a reason to return!

    Reply
  9. The GypsyNesters says

    October 28, 2014 at 6:05 am

    Great story, one of so many in Italy. Wonder why Shakespeare moved the story to Verona?

    Reply
  10. Shelley says

    February 23, 2015 at 5:58 pm

    What an interesting history and photos! I would love to visit Gradara, and the Marche region in general.

    Reply
  11. Betsy Wuebker | PassingThru says

    February 23, 2015 at 10:14 pm

    What a fascinating history. I can get lost in stories like these. We have yet to enjoy the Borgia series. I did know that Shakespeare had been influenced by Dante’s work, but seeing your beautiful photos really made the story come alive in a different, more thrilling way.

    Reply
  12. Paula McInerney says

    February 23, 2015 at 11:30 pm

    I love the serendipity of finding places and Gradara sounds like a great find. This happened to us with Domodossola and both have intriguing histories.

    Reply
  13. Irene S. Levine says

    February 24, 2015 at 1:39 am

    I’ve been to Emilia Romagna so many times but have never gotten to Marche. It looks wonderful!

    Reply
  14. Elaine J. Masters says

    February 24, 2015 at 4:35 am

    Just lovely. I had no idea there was a historical inspiration for Shakespeare’s R & J.

    Reply
  15. Carole Terwilliger Meyers says

    February 25, 2015 at 3:31 am

    Thanks for sharing the real story of Romeo and Juliet. Is the castle of Gradara also a hotel? I’m starting a photo collaboration on castle hotels, http://berkeleyandbeyond.com/Way-Beyond/Photo-Galleries/Castle-Hotels/castle-hotels.html

    Reply
  16. Susan Moore says

    February 25, 2015 at 4:55 am

    Gradara looks like a wonderful place to explore and spend some time learning about the history of the town. What a beautiful castle and gorgeous views!

    Reply
  17. santafetraveler says

    February 27, 2015 at 2:44 pm

    Gradara,looks so Romeo and Juliet! What a rich and interesting history.

    Reply

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